Champagne wine area
Photo: Pline / Wikimedia Commons, CC BY-SA 3.0
The Vallée de la Marne follows the river west from Aÿ, near Épernay, for nearly 100 km. Its wine is Meunier country, grown on north-facing clay-marl slopes.
The Vallée de la Marne is one of four main wine-growing sub-regions in Champagne, alongside Montagne de Reims, the Côte des Blancs and the Côte des Bar. It is the part of Champagne to know for Meunier. The grape makes up just over 30% of Champagne's roughly 34,000 hectares, and about 70% of it grows in the Marne Valley.
The grape mix changes as you travel along the river. Near Épernay the vines are mainly pinot noir. Moving west, Meunier becomes the dominant grape. It buds later than pinot noir, so it is less prone to spring frost damage in this cooler valley.
The vineyards follow the Marne for nearly 100 km, from Aÿ towards Château-Thierry and beyond, on north-facing slopes. The soils are mainly clay-limestone and tend towards marl. The area crosses three départements, Marne, Aisne and Seine-et-Marne, so it is a long strip of vineyard along the river rather than one compact block.
Aÿ is a Grand Cru village and the gateway to the valley from Épernay. For scale, the whole Champagne appellation covers some 34,300 hectares and 319 villages. Champagne's hillsides, houses and cellars were added to the UNESCO World Heritage list on July 4, 2015.
Base yourself in Épernay, the station for the eastern end of the valley, and work outward from there. The TER from Paris Gare de l'Est takes 1 hour 20 minutes. The Épernay tourist office is under 10 minutes on foot from the station, so it makes an easy first stop when you arrive.
Aÿ is the natural first village to visit, as the gateway to the valley from Épernay. Hautvillers and Cumières are also Marne Valley villages, and both are worth placing on your map when you plan your days. Because the vineyards run so far along the river, pick one stretch rather than trying to cover the whole valley in a day.
Fees, opening days and booking rules differ from one estate to the next, so ask the estate or the Épernay tourist office about them before you set out.
If you taste at more than one cellar in a day, spit rather than swallow and nominate a designated driver. Work out how you will get between villages before you leave, since the vineyards stretch along the river for nearly 100 km.
À La Française / Viator
You spend 3 hours at one family-run winery near Épernay, with six tastings and lunch included. Groups are capped at 12 and a local guide leads in English. At €90 ($97), the fee covers entrance, tastings and the meal.
From €903 hours
Best for: A hands-on tasting class with lunch, small groups
À La Française / Viator
You spend 8 hours 10 minutes with a local English-speaking guide in a group of no more than 8. The day covers a Veuve Clicquot visit, a family-run winery and a traditional lunch. At €330 ($356), it includes 9 Champagne tastings and admission.
From €3308 hours 10 minutes
Best for: Small-group full day: one big house, one grower
CHAMPAGNE DREAM TOUR / Viator
This 4-hour half day covers a visit and tasting at Champagne Munoz Bruneau, a single estate near Épernay. Travel is in an air-conditioned vehicle. It costs from €80 ($86), and the tasting is part of the visit.
From €804 hours
Best for: Épernay visitors who want one grower's cellar
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