The Graves wine area lies on the left bank of the Garonne, just south of Bordeaux. Its gravel soils give red wines and dry whites, and the Pessac-Léognan appellation at its northern end has some 70 châteaux.
The wine
The Graves takes its name from the gravel and pebbles the river left behind. The appellation covers 3,350 hectares across 42 communes, with 200 winegrowers, on the left bank of the Garonne south of Bordeaux. Sud Bordeaux Tourisme describes the vineyard as about 3,500 hectares, running from La Brède to Langon.
The area has a long record in the region's wine trade: the first Bordeaux wine shipped to England in the 12th century came from the Graves.
The northern end of the Graves has its own appellation. Pessac-Léognan was created in 1987, carved out of the Graves, and its ten communes lie south and southwest of Bordeaux. It covers around 1,880 hectares and some 70 châteaux.
About 86% of Pessac-Léognan's wine is red. The rest is dry white, made from sauvignon blanc and sémillon.
Visiting
Base yourself in or near Pessac or Léognan, the towns where most of the estates below sit. The Graves vineyards start just south of Bordeaux, and the Pessac-Léognan appellation says all its châteaux offer tours.
From Paris, the direct TGV INOUI from Paris Montparnasse to Bordeaux Saint-Jean takes 2 hours 3 minutes on the fastest services. Other trains take a little longer, and some need a change. The estates and the local tourist office can advise on getting from Bordeaux to a particular château.
Entry-level visits with a tasting cost €5–20 ($5–22) at the Pessac-Léognan châteaux. Longer or premium visits cost more. These three show the range:
- Château Carbonnieux, Léognan: 45 minutes with a tasting at the château for €5 ($5).
- Château Haut-Bailly, Léognan: a 30-minute guided tasting of two wines for €20 ($22), or a longer classic visit of 1 hour 15 minutes. Each option is booked online.
- Château Pape Clément, Pessac: the Wine tour & tasting costs €20 ($22) and lasts 1 hour 30 minutes. Its other tours cost €40–99 ($43–107). Visits are booked through the website.
For estates that don't state a booking method, ask when you plan your day. Hours, languages and booking rules are set by each château, so check the estate's own website or contact it before you go.
During the appellation's open-house weekend, many châteaux open on Saturday only, and only some also open on Sunday. Plan around that if your trip falls on those dates.
Spit at tastings if you are driving, and name a designated driver for the day.
Well-known estates such as Haut-Bailly and Pape Clément sell their visits through online booking, so reserve ahead.
