Médoc

The Médoc is the left-bank wine area of Bordeaux, and the D2 Route des Châteaux links its Margaux, Saint-Julien, Pauillac and Saint-Estèphe appellations. Classified estates such as Fifth Growth Château Lynch-Bages set its wine apart.

The wine

The Médoc is the left-bank wine area of Bordeaux, and it is organized around four appellations: Margaux, Saint-Julien, Pauillac and Saint-Estèphe. The D2, known as the Route des Châteaux, runs through the Haut-Médoc and links all four.

Classification is part of what sets the area apart. Château Lynch-Bages in Pauillac, for example, is a Fifth Growth, and that rank is how visitors often sort the estates they want to see.

For an overview of the whole area, start at the Médoc-Vignoble tourist office in the Maison du Tourisme et du Vin, La Verrerie, Pauillac (tel. 05 56 59 03 08). It covers the 8 Médoc appellations and shows a free 12-minute film on winemaking in the Médoc.

Visiting

Pauillac is the practical base. It has the tourist office, a TER station and several estates, including Château Lynch-Bages, Cave La Rose Pauillac and Château Gaudin. For the Margaux area, the Margaux tourist office advises Margaux-Cantenac station, and Moulis-Listrac is also on the train line.

Getting there

From Paris, take the TGV from Montparnasse to Bordeaux Saint-Jean, then the TER toward Lesparre-Médoc or Le Verdon. The TER stops at Margaux, Moulis-Listrac and Pauillac, and the ride from Bordeaux to Pauillac is about 75 minutes (1 hour 15 minutes) on the example 6:23 a.m. departure.

By car, Pauillac is 50 minutes from Bordeaux via the D2 or D1215, and Margaux is about 45 minutes via the D2. Bus line 705 runs from Bordeaux to Pauillac in about 90 minutes, and line 703 serves Moulis-en-Médoc and Listrac-Médoc. Bordeaux-Mérignac airport is 35–40 minutes from Margaux.

Estates and fees

Some estates take visitors only by appointment, so plan ahead. Château Margaux reportedly takes cellar visits by appointment Monday to Friday, and closes at weekends, on public holidays, in August and during harvest. Confirm with the estate when you book.

At Château Lynch-Bages, the Classic Tour lasts about 1 hour 30 minutes with 3 wines, at €25 ($27) per person. The Premium Visit lasts about 2 hours with 5 wines from the family's 3 Médoc properties, at €60 ($65) per person. Ask the estate whether you need to book.

At Cave La Rose Pauillac, the immersive visit from April to September is by reservation. The rest of the year there are traditional guided tours. Château Gaudin, a family estate in the Pauillac vineyard held by the same family since 1901, offers guided cellar visits; ask the estate about conditions and fees.

As at any tasting, spit if you are driving, or choose a designated driver for the day.

When to go

Harvest begins around mid-September. Late September to October is a busy time on the Route des Châteaux, so book visits well in advance.