Chablis is a Burgundy wine area about 20 km from Auxerre, planted only with chardonnay. Its Kimmeridgian limestone soils and a grand cru slope above the Serein set its wine apart.
The wine
Chardonnay is the only grape variety authorized in Chablis. The vineyard covered 5,884 hectares in 2024, and production averages 38.67 million bottles a year, sold in around 100 countries.
The soil is what sets the area apart within Burgundy. The Chablis appellation (decree of 1938) is planted on limestone formed in the Kimmeridgian period, on 3,719 hectares. Chablis Premier Cru (decree of 1967) comes from limestone slopes of the same period, on about 771 hectares. Petit Chablis (decree of 1944) grows on the plateaux at the tops of the hills, on Portlandian limestone at 230–280 m, and is a fresh, lively wine to drink young.
That makes four levels: Petit Chablis, Chablis, Chablis Premier Cru and Chablis Grand Cru.
Chablis Grand Cru is a single appellation with seven Climats: Blanchot, Bougros, Les Clos, Grenouilles, Preuses, Valmur and Vaudésir. The vines lie on the right bank of the Serein, north-east of the town, facing the sun at 100–250 m. They form a continuous band, running from Bougros in the north-west to Blanchot in the south-east.
The grand cru covers 99–101 hectares and is served at 12–14°C. Most of it is produced in the village of Chablis and the hamlets of Fyé and Poinchy. Les Clos may be the original core of the Chablis vineyards, first worked by the Cistercians of Pontigny.
Visiting
Base yourself in the village of Chablis, where La Chablisienne, Simonnet-Febvre and Domaine Céline et Frédéric Gueguen all have their cellars. Domaine Clotilde Davenne is just outside, in Préhy.
Walk-ins and appointments both exist. Simonnet-Febvre welcomes visitors throughout the year. Its cellar door at 9 avenue d'Oberwesel is open Tuesday to Saturday, 10 a.m. to 1 p.m. and 2:30 p.m. to 6:30 p.m. A guided visit of its vaulted cellars with a tasting is arranged by appointment.
La Chablisienne works by reservation, and some formulas need 48 hours' notice. Its Chablis cellar has one set of hours for January to March and another for April to December, and it is open Sundays. Prices run from €6.50 ($7) for the "discovery" formula to €35 ($38) for "prestige." The Terroir formula at €27.50 ($30) and the Prestige formula both need your own vehicle to reach the vineyards.
Domaine Clotilde Davenne welcomes visitors to its tasting cellar and also offers a vineyard ride in an electric Méhari. Domaine Gueguen offers several tasting options. Ask each estate about fees and terms when you book.
The Chablis tourist office runs a guided village visit that ends with a tasting at a Chablis estate. It is by reservation only.
Spit at tastings, and arrange a designated driver if you are visiting several cellars by car.
Getting there
By car, leave the A6 from Paris at exit 20 (Auxerre Sud/Venoy) and follow signs to Chablis, about 10 km. Chablis is 186 km from Paris and 134 km from Beaune. Coming from the south, leave the A6 at Nitry (exit 21); Chablis is then 20 km away.
By train, take the TER from Paris Bercy to Auxerre-Saint-Gervais, which takes 105 minutes (1 hour 45 minutes). From the south, Tonnerre is the closest station, at 17 km.
Chablis has no railway station, so train travelers must continue by hired car from Auxerre (20 km), Tonnerre (17 km) or Laroche-Migennes (32 km). Book the car before you leave.
