The Côte Chalonnaise is a strip of Burgundy vineyards about 25 km long, between the Côte de Beaune and the Mâconnais. Its wines come from scattered village pockets, with no Grand Cru.
The wine
The Côte Chalonnaise lies west of the Saône plain, about 25 km long and 7 km wide, in the south of Burgundy. The vines grow in separate islands rather than one continuous slope. There are no Grand Cru vineyards here.
Chardonnay and pinot noir dominate plantings, with aligoté and a little gamay. The village appellations are Bouzeron, Rully, Mercurey, Givry and Montagny. Bouzeron is the only village appellation made entirely from aligoté.
Each village has its own balance of colors. Mercurey is about 80 percent red, with 32 Premier Cru climats and vines at 230 to 320 m on marls and marly limestone. Rully covers about 340 hectares, 217 of them chardonnay and 127 pinot noir, and has 23 Premier Cru climats.
Rully is also one of the main places for Crémant de Bourgogne, made there since the early 19th century. Givry is mostly red, with 220 of its 265 hectares in red and 45 in white. Montagny makes only white wine.
The appellations here offer good value for money.
Visiting
Base yourself in Chalon-sur-Saône, the main town and nearest mainline station, or in Mercurey, 12 km away. From Paris Gare de Lyon the fastest routes pair a TGV with a TER or Intercités, often via Dijon. A slower direct TER from Paris Bercy takes 232 minutes (3 hours 52 minutes).
Over 150 estates and cellars welcome visitors all year round, though opening varies from estate to estate. Ask the estate about fees when you book, since tasting prices differ.
Four estates show the range:
- Domaine de la Luolle in Moroges is organic and biodynamic, farms 9 hectares and receives visitors by appointment.
- Domaine Ninot in Rully is organic and offers a one-hour tasting of three wines, plus a visit and tasting covering Rully and Mercurey and a bicycle option at the estate.
- Maison Tramier in Mercurey, a family business since 1842, offers 3 different tours and tastings.
- Château de Chamirey in Mercurey runs a walking tour with tastings among its Premier Cru vines.
If you would rather taste across several estates in one stop, three tasting cellars cover the area. The Maison des Vins de la Côte Chalonnaise, at 2 promenade Sainte-Marie in Chalon-sur-Saône, was created in 1982 and covers all the local appellations. Givry Vins serves 32 Givry wines from 22 estates by the glass. Caveau Divin Mercurey offers 64 Mercurey wines from 44 estates.
The Chalon-sur-Saône tourist office is open daily from April 1 to October 31. From November 1 to March 31 it is open Tuesday to Saturday only, so winter Sunday and Monday enquiries there are not possible.
If you are driving between tastings, name a designated driver or spit. The vineyards are scattered pockets across a strip about 25 km long and 7 km wide, so plan how you will get between villages. Some estates, Domaine de la Luolle among them, take visitors by appointment only, so contact them before you go.
