Champagne
Photo: FrDr / Wikimedia Commons, CC BY-SA 4.0
Troyes is a half-timbered old town shaped like a champagne cork, once the capital of the Counts of Champagne. Wine travelers stop here to walk the center and as a base for estate visits toward the Côte des Bar.
Troyes was once the capital of the Counts of Champagne, and its historic center is shaped like a champagne cork. That makes it a natural first stop for a trip around Champagne wine, with some history to see before you head out to the cellars.
The old town is full of colorful half-timbered houses, 16th-century town houses, narrow streets and inner courtyards. It is a place to walk slowly, and you can do it without booking anything.
For wine, Troyes is the gateway to the Côte des Bar. The estates in this guide are in other towns: Champagne Drappier is in Urville, and Champagne Devaux is in Bar-sur-Seine. Plan on leaving Troyes for the tasting part of your trip and coming back to the old town afterward.
The Troyes tourist office, Troyes La Champagne Tourisme, is at 16 rue Aristide Briand, and its website is www.tourisme-troyes.com. If you are heading toward Bar-sur-Aube, a separate office, Office de Tourisme de la Côte des Bar en Champagne, is at 4 Bd du 14 Juillet.
Champagne Drappier in Urville takes visitors by reservation only, so book before you set out. The table shows the two estates in this guide and what a tasting costs at each.
| Estate | Visits | Tasting from |
|---|---|---|
| Champagne Drappier (Urville) | By reservation only | €21 ($23) |
| Champagne Devaux – Manoir de Villeneuve (Bar-sur-Seine) | — | — |
The cellars at Drappier were built in 1152 by Cistercian monks of Clairvaux, so the cellar tour is as much a look at old vaults as a tasting.
A tasting without the tour costs €21 ($23). The cellar tour plus tasting costs €26 ($28), and the tour runs at 2:30 p.m. Both prices include VAT.
The estate is open Monday to Friday from 8 a.m. to noon and from 2 p.m. to 6 p.m. On Saturday the hours are 9 a.m. to noon and 2 p.m. to 6 p.m. Each day has a midday break, and Sunday is not an opening day.
Champagne Devaux is at the Manoir de Villeneuve, in the hamlet of Villeneuve outside Bar-sur-Seine. Ask the estate about visit terms and fees before you set out.
As at any tasting, one person in your group should be the designated driver, and spitting is normal practice at the cellar table.
The clearest timing guide is the weekly rhythm at Drappier. The estate is open Monday to Saturday, closes at midday each day and does not open on Sunday.
The guided cellar tour is set for 2:30 p.m. That suits a day that starts in Troyes, where you can walk the half-timbered streets in the morning, and moves on to Urville for the afternoon slot.
If you want a tasting without the tour, Drappier's morning hours run from 8 a.m. on weekdays and from 9 a.m. on Saturday. The afternoon session starts at 2 p.m. every day the estate is open. Reserve in either case.
The old town's streets and courtyards are there to walk whenever you arrive. Build your estate visits around the opening days above, and leave Sunday for the town itself.
Three points will save you a wasted trip:
Troyes station sits at the western end of Le Bouchon, the cork-shaped center, and it is an easy walk from there into the old town.
FrDr / Wikimedia Commons
A timber-framed hotel at the foot of Troyes cathedral, in buildings from the 15th and 16th centuries around a green courtyard. Breakfast is served in the courtyard, and there is a swimming pool.
Best for: Couples on a Troyes city break by train
FrDr / Wikimedia Commons
A historic building from 1445, once a grammar school and a convent, in downtown Troyes near the cathedral quarter. It has a spa and an indoor pool, and it is reached from the A5 and A26 highways.
Best for: Spa stays in central Troyes
At Champagne Drappier in Urville, yes. Visits are by reservation only, and the guided cellar tour runs at 2:30 p.m. Plan your arrival around that slot, and don't expect to turn up on a Sunday or at lunchtime.
At Champagne Drappier in Urville, a tasting without the tour is €21 ($23), and the cellar tour plus tasting is €26 ($28). Both prices include VAT.
Trains leave Paris Gare de l'Est for Troyes, with 17 trains a day and fares from €35 ($38). Journey times vary by train, so look up the one you want on SNCF Connect. From Troyes station it is an easy walk into the old town.
Troyes was the capital of the Counts of Champagne, and its historic center is shaped like a champagne cork. It has colorful half-timbered houses, 16th-century town houses, narrow streets and inner courtyards, and it is a gateway to the Côte des Bar.
À La Française / Viator
You spend 3 hours at one family-run winery near Épernay, with six tastings and lunch included. Groups are capped at 12 and a local guide leads in English. At €90 ($97), the fee covers entrance, tastings and the meal.
From €903 hours
Best for: A hands-on tasting class with lunch, small groups
Sparkling Tour / Viator
You visit three family-run Champagne growers outside Reims in a private minivan with air conditioning, for up to 8 people. The 8-hour day starts with hotel pickup in Reims or Épernay and includes entry and tastings of 10 Champagnes. It costs €495 ($535) from.
From €4958 hours
Best for: Small groups who want a private day with three growers
À La Française / Viator
You spend 8 hours 10 minutes with a local English-speaking guide in a group of no more than 8. The day covers a Veuve Clicquot visit, a family-run winery and a traditional lunch. At €330 ($356), it includes 9 Champagne tastings and admission.
From €3308 hours 10 minutes
Best for: Small-group full day: one big house, one grower
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