Entre-deux-Mers lies between the Garonne and Dordogne rivers in the Bordeaux region. Its dry white wines, made from Sauvignon Blanc, Sémillon and Muscadelle, set it apart.
The wine
Entre-deux-Mers is a dry white wine area. The Entre-Deux-Mers appellation makes dry white wine from three grapes: Muscadelle, Sauvignon Blanc and Sémillon.
The wider area extends over 7,000 hectares and is the largest group of AOC wines in Gironde, with 17 AOCs in total. The dry white that carries the area's name is one of many wines you can taste here.
The land between the two rivers mixes vineyards, forests and bastide villages. There are ten wine route itineraries, so you can pick a loop that suits your transport.
Visiting
Bordeaux Saint-Jean is the main station for the area, and the TGV from Paris Montparnasse reaches it in 2 hours 5 minutes. The Entre-deux-Mers has no single town center, so from Saint-Jean you continue by road or cycle path. TGV trains need advance seat reservations, so book your Paris ticket ahead.
By bike
The Roger Lapébie cycle route runs from Bordeaux to Sauveterre-de-Guyenne. It is 57.5 km, rated easy, and takes about 4 hours by bike. The path itself is 47 km, starting at Latresne, and passes through vineyards, forests and bastides. Welcome points sit in former stations on the old railway line.
If you cycle between tastings, keep the tastings small and spit. If you go by car, arrange a designated driver.
Estates and fees
Tasting fees start low. Château Sainte-Marie charges €5 ($5) for a visit and tasting of 3 wines. Château Lestrille offers a tour and tasting from €6 ($6) per person. A fuller tasting of 6 wines starts at €20 ($22).
Château Sainte-Marie takes walk-ins on weekdays, Monday to Friday, 9 a.m. to noon and 2 p.m. to 6 p.m. The last visits start at 11 a.m. and 5 p.m. A visit lasts about 1 hour and runs in French or English. The estate is open all year except bank holidays.
Château Lauduc is a few minutes from central Bordeaux. You can taste several AOC wines there, including Entre-Deux-Mers dry white, and a sound-and-lights tour of the former cellars ends with a tasting of 3 wines.
On weekends, some estates take visitors by appointment only. Château Sainte-Marie asks for at least 3 days' notice for a weekend visit, so book ahead if Saturday or Sunday is your only free day. It has no visits over the midday break from noon to 2 p.m., so check each estate's hours before you go.